Climb harder reddit 5 years my training has been made up mostly of Doing laps on auto belays for 1000'-2000' of non stop climbing (climb-downclimb-climb) on grades varying from 5. The only way to climb harder is to become and athlete. Squat: Climbing tends to emphasis single leg strength, so pistol squats are king Hip hinge: Deadlift Explosive full body movement: KB swings, Turkish Get Ups, etc. 7-5. 11's. And second, so we can have more climbs available to try. I tried to correct for experience (by multiple methods, ie years climbing) then looked at (climbing grade - grade predicted from experience)/ years climbing. So I usually climb a bit harder on toprope and use it to work on technique because I can conserve energy and don't have to stop to clip and hold weird positions. Not really an answer to your question, but a month ago I twisted my ankle pretty hard after a bad landing when jumping from a boulder at climbing gym (not really a high one, my feet were around 2 meters above the ground at the moment of jump). Create work capacity and improve base capabilities Improve technique and better recruitment Here I am, just climbing, and climbing harder than I ever have, whereas he burnt out for a few months. If you're falling off because you're pumped, practice efficient climbing with minimal force, good resting (very important) and finger strength! Your pull up power is better than many I know who climb harder than 12a. Just don't blame your team and look to improve. I suspect what is more true is that climbing outside is different. People consistently claim that climbing outdoors is harder. Anecdotally I feel as though I get less injured a lighter weight. The flip side is that climbing well does require very high levels of specific strength. Also in terms of climbing grades, I have done a couple v10 boulders out in Bishop CA, and a handful of v9 from many different crags out west. This is really informative, thanks for sharing. Even in sport climbing, Ramon Julian Puigblanqué is 159 and one of the best sport climber ever (51 9a/9a+ routes). If you climb 3-4 days a week, projecting hard boulders should be a priority. Indoors you have bright, obvious holds, but limited choices for feet (This really changes how technical climbing works). "climbing on lead" isn't going to train endurance. I've been around this sub for ~5 years now and have enjoyed a lot of discussions here; overtime I've noticed that the community here leans towards being newer to climbing hard rather than experienced, and it's wonderful to see so many other stoked climbers. Topics: Winging Scapula - Scap Mechanics and Clinical Decisio But finding ways around pulling hard has led me to be three years into climbing and still being incapable of pulling hard Now if you gain some strength, you'll still have this skill though. I feel cycling a lot with drop bars for 2 years gave me a bit of strength to begin with. But the core of really hard climbing is usually about 1. Now comparing big walls to true alpinism like in Patagonia or the Alps is different because they’re nearly the same sport in different weather. Moonboard, tension, and kilter. " Yeah, bro, it was definitely the amount of creatine contained in a couple of chicken breasts, and had nothing to do with the weightlifting and hard climbing. There was a great thread recently which had a lot of helpful climbing advice and got me thinking. 13 climbers. Climbing is a skill-based sport where strength to weight ratio is important. Good luck! As a solid middle aged v4/v5 male climber with a labrum tear, this gives me hope and thanks. If your technique is good, endurance train for a month and then go crush 5. Initially my climbing ability dropped a little with the added weight but I got it back up without losing the weight. Absolutely pack on some muscle, and dont be afraid if your legs get a little bigger/ heavier. Glad you got back up to V10’s. No climbing for 6 weeks at least, will definitely downclimb boulders from now on. I tried climbing my p4 stuck smurf to d4 before the season end, so I 75% winrate climbed it to p1. In fact, the Dr had a hard time seeing the tear on the mri and said PT is best bet. At this point the biggest recommendation seems to be just climb - and that makes complete sense, but I want to at least be aware of what good technique is when climbing, things I can do to prevent injuring myself and generally work smarter not harder when on the wall - I suspect some other new climbers feel the same. Jun 14, 2022 路 There are two obvious reasons we want to progress: First, so we can perform better on our selected objectives. Believe it or not I literally just split push and win in Silver. Climbing sessions vary depending on where I am in my training cycle. You need to be whiling to be in the gym every week. I had been casually climbing every other week before for maybe a month or two. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. Not many gyms have a style of climbing that mimics very hard slab climbing, so it might be frustrating to gym climbers to hop on any slab (my buddies laughed their asses off and I felt like a baby deer walking up a blank fac). I would bet that if you start training pure strength, you'll progress relatively quickly for a while since you have a good base of technique and tricks in r/climbharder: Reddit's rock climbing training community. also at some point strength gains there necessitate more hypertrophy which means you need to add mass, counteracting some of the r/climbharder: Reddit's rock climbing training community. Im 6'2" 200lbs and climb about as hard as you. If you want your stamina and endurance to go up you have to train for it. There I got +13 -17/19 xD Yes if your acc has been in the same elo for too long that acc is pretty hard to climb on. I can get a few v4's but the majority of them are getting pretty too crimpy and same with the 5. Have at it. I find that I can climb hard compression at a very heavy weight but it has a serious influence on my ability to push myself in other styles. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Or that it's easier to get better at gym climbing due to the sheer convenience and ease of access provided by a gym. Nov 4, 2019 路 There was a climber survey on Reddit that I analyzed. i imagine that you can fit in more bouldering than 2x per week and i would recommend that unless you have pain/discomfort. But, primarily, you develop that through hard climbing. 10 and projecting v4, 5. Also having a climbing partner critic me on every climb. The atmosphere of psyche and trying hard with a group that's better than you makes it impossible not to improve at much greater speed than climbing with people that are at or below your level. Look at Lynn hill (your height) doing the nose FA cause the roof suit her very well, also Brooke is your height and climb harder than anyone here probably. For the last 2. Ontop of that i would implement probably an unhealthy amount of board climbing (specifically the kilter board). Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. The first few weeks I had the Tindeq, I was always trying to pull new PRs in my warmup, and ended up spending so much time and energy trying to pull harder that it affected my actual climbing. Thinks he’s back slid since I climb higher grades and he is struggling on lower ones. If you gain the ability to climb just as hard while being heavier youve become physically stronger and you can always cut body fat/water weight later if you decide to stop taking it (atleast this is what im telling myself 馃槅) Steep climbing is difficult but also, the Kilterboard method of grading climbs isn't too accurate in the sense that it automatically just downgrades or upgrades a climb based on how steep the wall is. Hands down the best instructional video. As the grades go up and the climbing gets harder, everything gets ratcheted up. There were more than 400 respondents. This is by far probably your biggest issue as others have mentioned. You're doing more difficult moves for longer. I'm climbing v3 and 5. The skills don't perfectly translate. Suddenly you see yourself and your potential in a different way because the level you view as normal is a lot higher when you start comparing yourself to Some people want to climb, some want to climb hard, and some want to climb hard without trying super hard. I adopted a really static style of climbing and while I did get myself on steep terrain in the gym it was only V2/3 where I knew I wouldn't need to be dynamic. Mar 25, 2021 路 Today we chat through some of the questions in the Reddit Climbharder Climbing Injury Thread. Adding this routine on top of your existing climbing is a reasonable increase in training volume, as opposed to a huge jump that'll lead to injury. Based on how you described mild/moderate/severe pulley injuries in terms of how it should feel after a week off, it sounds like I hopefully have a mild one as after a week of rest it felt about 80%+ better. 12+ sport as a challenge Getting my deadlift to 2xBW was nice because now I know I have that strength to rely on/I can’t use that as an excuse anymore, but I didn’t climb harder because of it. It feels impossible to climb with some champs, namely anything that scales, I used to play Kaisa and Jinx, I can’t win with those champs at all this season, someone feeds so hard the game is over before I hit my power spike, now it’s just Jhin and Caitlyn two champs that can win lane by themselves if they have too and can still bring some You can train hard for a year and do Everest, but for the vast majority of people rock climbing for a year won’t get them past pitch 3 on Freerider. Aug 31, 2021 路 Climbing harder requires stronger fingers, and developing stronger fingers requires specific training. honestly the best way to make your training more climbing specific is to boulder hard and recover well (you're not going to improve much in your climbing session, if you were deadlifting heavy the day prior). You are right, I have too much excess fat atm and I am doing a pretty strict calory restriction to combat the tendon strain from that side and also be able to climb harder routes. Plat: It is a very heavy focus on team work elo and 2nd hardest elo to climb out Emerald: A very intensively focus on meta elo and my current elo that I'm hard stuck in, but silver is still way harder compare to emerald. Skin also becomes harder to maintain at a heavier weight. Likewise you don't enter the gym at 30% bf and expect to climb hard. Harder in fact. Legitimately couldn't do a significant portion of them in that range. Dec 15, 2024 路 Setters tend not to group harder climbs together, so you might be able to use nearby easier climb holds, or downclimb jugs (if your gym has them). You get better at what you practice and worse at what you don't. Mind you once I start climbing outside frequently, I drop all minimum edge hanging as my fingers get plenty of small crimping outside. r/climbharder: Reddit's rock climbing training community. the problem is that after a certain limit shoulder and upper arm pulling power stops being climbing specific because it isn't the limiting factor in basically any hard climbing moves, even for sustained pulling moves. You can no longer simply go climbing and expect to improve. As for protocols I'm using the same ones you mentioned, curls and pulls (Tindeq and Tyler Nelson must be making a fortune right now, haha). Problems are hard for me, struggling on V3's, would like to train this type of climbing. Coaching can help, but also depends on the coach. Quick about me if relevant: climbing 1 year, project/send V5's in the gym, project/send V4 outdoors. Don't think than it is what is limiting you grade wise. Yeah i'm miles better at beta / technique than my weaker friends, but that's not the point. 5'7, 155, multiple v13s here as well. Not just climb on a rope twice a week Reddit's rock climbing training community. But also add maybe a day a week where you do higher volume Stretch 10+ minutes daily It's mostly been at a 50° angle. Not that some (or most) people aren't better at it or feel more competent at it. I have a small tear, and only gives me pain when I climb really hard. It's hard to tell the difference between grades when you're adjusting the steepness by 5-10 degrees. A session usually lasts around 3-3. It's not that this split is harder, it's just that the last two splits it has been WAAAAAAY to easy to gain lp and climb. If you're planning on improving your climbing, I'd separate it in two phases. Started technical climbing in summer of 2014, through that winter I had multiple subluxations of my left shoulder. End your session when you feel fatigued or can no longer try hard Do not just continue climbing easier climbs Add variety Slab, roofs, vertical, crimps, slopers, pinches, etc. A plateau is a stagnation in climbing progress (not measured just by grades, but also by benchmarks and relative climbing performance) which lasts for an extended period of time, most people use one full year as the threshold. Sometimes, we do the same problems and we all agree on the difficulty. You don't get to take a couple years off here and there. When I’m at the top of the moonboard absolutely worked, I feel great about my performance But some people might be like “shit that was a struggle, not fun climbing” which is understandable. I lifted a bunch in high school (awkwardly trying to build muscle), so I came into climbing with a basic level of strength training under my belt. You will make huge "gains" in your climbing ability just by practicing more. 13b)ive gotten as low as 175 lbs and i felt weak and depleted. So add in rest day exercises that can increase your climbing ability without taxing your tendons, such as flexibility work, movement training, movement repetition on EASY holds, core training, breath work, visualization, massage, and so forth. You haven't been climbing long enough to experience a plateau, what you're experiencing is just the end of the noob gains. Ive been climbing for 3 months and try to climb 3-4 days a week and do the classes at the climbing gym (Yoga, Cragfit, coreFit) - Great results. Generally, stopping when max performance starts to drop is best or maybe 15-20 mins more max. Only once you understand enough to accurately target it off the wall is that sort of general training actually useful, and even then only in small amounts that complement the hard climbing. If you feel you're falling off things because of strength, train your fingers. Some are physical trainers and might not help you with mental or tactical stuff. No real risk of injury because your feet are always planted. When I was climbing outdoor V8-V10 I was getting wrecked on board V6-7s. The act of climbing trains shoulders, chest, triceps, etc, but does not do so in all planes of motion. However, if we’re not mindful of our reasons for climbing, getting better at climbing can be a form of self-sabotage. Exactly, and maybe it's off topic but not only climbing outside gives you the best experience needed to climb well, but in my opinion it's also what about climbing is mostly about, as it comes with a kind of adventurous way of life, spending really good time in beautiful sceneries, good camaraderie, strange and interesting encounters, learning to seek simpler pleasures * If you are "normal weight" as measured by BMI, recognize there is no weight-based limit to climbing very hard * Recognize that fat-loss is a one time trick, but getting better at climbing and getting strong are general and longer lasting avenues to improvement. In terms of the more difficult, but more important, things to measure, prior to starting the program I climbed my first 7a indoors on top rope, but was regularly climbing 6c and 6c+, 6b on lead, and 6A+ benchmarks on the 2019 Moonboard set, though I hadn’t done anything harder and would really struggle with many of the 6Bs. That’s why professional climber Jonathan Siegrist crafted a comprehensive training plan—Climbing’s Six Weeks To Stronger Fingers LEARN course—aimed at 5. Main thing I've been trying to figure out for the Kilter is the frequency of climbing? I climb ~3x/week, 2 hours per session. I usually climb twice a week and hangboard once or twice a week (would climb more but hard with a young family). Gym climbing: Advantage people of the same height as the ones who graded the problem (generally not short women) I am 5'9" with a -2 ape index. TopRope physically is similar to sport climbing because they are longer series of moves, but without the added complexity of clipping and without the fear of falling. But you're a climber, and you want to climb, and it's hard to not work toward a goal every day. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. 5 hours. 11–5. You don't get to put on 30lbs of fat and continue to climb hard grades. Alternatively, I know people who climb harder grades on boards than outside. So projecting above your grade works well if you have good continuous access to either a major climbing area I climb very hard each session to the point where my tendons and arms are so sore and pumped by the end of the session. I think a lot of "weak" climbers (myself included) are able to climb hard outdoors by distilling beta/microbeta, and finding methods to do problems that really suit our personal body types and strengths. I climb harder, pull weaker, and I KNOW my technique is trash comparative to the crushers. Always hovering around 10% bodyfat. You can't climb, because you are where you are supposed to be and that's alright. So yes, experience matters. It put people in a variety of elos that they never actually belong in. . Can be projecting, volume, limit bouldering, flashing etc. Help correct technique with footwork and climbing overall. 11. Some people are prone to developing an imbalance between muscles and suffer from complications that are difficult and time-consuming to "undo", as the symptoms only present themselves once significant damage has already occurred. I think, without question, gym climbing is harder (physically) than climbing outside. He started again, climbs at about the same grade/strength he was at. Eventually you'll hurt a finger, you'll rehab it, and be stronger after. Like people will take a scoop of creatine, then lift heavy, then climb hard, and when they get muscle cramps they'll go, "Creatine gave me cramps. You don't climb harder just from climbing more often. V8-10 Climb mostly outside, start taking week-month long trips to major climbing areas V10-12 Climb regularly at outside venues, start sending projects from previous years. If my feet popped, so did my shoulder. They may excel at board-style moves, but there's a lot more to climbing that dangling on tendons. Climb as hard as you enjoy. I looked at both roped climbing grades and bouldering grades. No matter how hard you climb you can always do something better when pushing your limits. g. I suspect by swapping out gym time for climbing time, you'll see a greater increase in ability. It's part of climbing; the only way to avoid finger injuries is to quit now. My experience with weightlifting and powerlifting is that it's easy to convince yourself that any climbing improvements stemmed from lifting, when in reality its contribution was minimal, you were untrained and relatively unfit to begin with, or you've actually progressed for entirely different reasons (e. I climb with people who climb the same grade as me that are shorter (5'2") and who are taller (6'3"). you reduced non-essential climbing volume or learned to try harder on the wall). Just read the whole thing. Just pull hard on edges and gain some strength and comfort before tackling a more demanding program. I climb my best around 185 lbs (5. My main is always low dia. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. People see the lightweight floater-style climbers and think that's the only body type that can climb hard. 11-. rfuyjrlkprizlkfnebpcvvyuohmkdykoscdbkpjhsltunbvkbvljptzclnzcfuxlgaismqxjmzos